There’s never been a better time to visit Wailea, the island’s most luxurious resort community
STEVEN LINDSEY | Contributing writer
StevenCraigLindsey@gmail.com
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Being a mindful tourist can be a challenge in any destination, but particularly after devastation by a natural disaster. On Aug. 8, 2023, wildfires broke out on Maui that destroyed historic towns and buildings across the island’s northwest shores, many of which were among the most popular vacation spots in all of Hawai’i.
The tragic effects still linger now, 13 months later, but members of various tourism organizations personally asked me and other writers to share the story that Maui’s open for business. In fact, they need visitors now more than ever. Infusing the economy with tourism dollars helps locals recover from numerous types of loss, including generational homes and businesses for many indigenous residents.
It’s a story I’m happy to tell because Maui has been a special place ever since I first visited as a teenager. It was magical then and only grows in my heart with each subsequent visit.
As with anywhere in the state of Hawaii, Maui welcomes everyone with open arms and a genuine aloha spirit. It was the first state in the union to recognize same-sex unions back in 1997, and today queer couples of all types can be seen openly displaying affection without a second glance.
So when my husband and I were invited to the luxe resort community of Wailea this past July, I couldn’t type the word “yes” fast enough.
The last two times we’ve stayed on Maui, Wailea has been our home base. Located 30 miles from the epicenter of the wildfires in Lahaina, Wailea could be considered the Beverly Hills of Maui. With the fragrance of orchids filling the air and one five-star resort after another nestled between designer boutiques, indulgent spas and chef-driven restaurants, it’s a destination perfect for slowing down and getting in touch with both nature and yourself.
Rise early each morning to explore the beaches, then set an alarm each evening to catch every sunset possible. Even if that’s all you do your entire vacation, it will be a memorable one.
But if you’re destined to live out your White Lotus fantasy, where every cocktail comes in a coconut or hollowed-out pineapple and every Wailea wish comes true, read on for some can’t-miss tips.
Getting there/getting around
It’s easy to fly nonstop to Maui from DFW on American Airlines. But if an 8-hour flight doesn’t sound appealing, try our trick: Spend a night or two in California. You can also opt to fly Southwest Airlines nonstop from Dallas to San Francisco, then catch a nonstop out of Oakland a day or two later. This helps acclimate you to the time change and breaks up the flight, plus you get a little free time to explore the Queer Motherland!
Once on Maui, you can rent a car, but we found Uber and Lyfts readily available and even more affordable than renting, especially on days we never left the resorts. Plus, we never had to worry about drinking too many Mai Tais.
Stay
Because I travel, I rarely stay at the same property for more than a couple of nights at a time so I can experience more options to write about. It’s a fun way to get a more well-rounded sense of a destination and its offerings.
This trip, the first stop was a return visit to the Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui (Fairmont-Kea-Lani.com), which has recently undergone major renovations — from its breathtaking lobby that perfectly frames the sparkling Pacific Ocean upon your arrival to glorious one-bedroom suites with spacious lanais and two-bedroom villas if you want to bring family or friends.
The resort offers a host of complimentary activities to enhance your stay, including aqua fitness classes, hula lessons, yoga and a Hawaiian outrigger canoe experience (always a must-do). On-site restaurants include Pilina for sushi, cocktails and a side of live music, as well as casual fine dining at K Restaurant, both excellent spots to catch those sunsets.
Set aside time for island wellness rituals at Fairmont Spa, or book a cabana at the adults-only pool for extra peace and tranquility.
If you want a completely adult experience on your vacation, book a portion of your getaway at Hotel Wailea (HotelWailea.com), Hawai’i’s only adults-only, all-suite luxury hotel. It’s the perfect addition to your Maui itinerary and just up the hill from the Fairmont. Spend a few hours each day in a complimentary poolside cabana (first come, first served), book a free outrigger ride most Sundays and set aside time on your daily agenda to partake in cocktails at The Birdcage (filled with real, live, wild birds!).
The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea showcases exquisite cuisine from Chef Ryan Cruz at every meal, but for the most unique dining option, request the Kitchen Table, where you sit facing all the action in the belly of the beast as chefs and servers perform a well-choreographed dance to bring you the best flavors of the islands.
Eat and drink
We absolutely adored the on-site restaurants at both the Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui and Hotel Wailea, but we always enjoy venturing out to try other local places. You might not immediately think of Italian fare when visiting Maui, but Matteo’s Osteria (MatteosMaui.com), quite possibly serves the best lasagna on the planet, as well as their signature dish, Isola, made with the day’s fresh catch.
Another favorite Maui experience for us is going to the nearby Kihei Foodland (Foodland.com) location, grabbing the most expensive poke from the deli (we’re told that’s always the freshest fish), then taking it to a picnic table on the beach. It’s definitely not fancy, but it’s a nice break from white tablecloths and a sommelier.
For some of the best tiki cocktails anywhere, head to the recently opened Tikehau Lounge (TikehauLounge.com), which shakes up creative concoctions that pay tribute to time-honored tiki recipes but with modern twists on presentation and quality of ingredients. Mari Howe’s creations will surprise and delight, plus you’ll be supporting owners and employees who created the bar after losing their hospitality jobs due to the wildfires.
Do
I made a promise to myself years ago that I would never write about Maui without recommending a sunrise visit to Haleakala National Park (NPS.gov/Hale). Reservations are now required, and you’ll need to rent a car or hire a tour company. But it’s easily one of the most awe-inspiring experiences of my life — and I’m confident it will be one of yours, too. Even if you do have to get up at 3 a.m. to make the most of it, you will be connected to the earth and history of Hawai’i in ways you can’t quite grasp until you go.
The author, right, and his husband
A new experience for us this year was our first-ever sunset sailing, courtesy of Trilogy (SailTrilogy.com). The tour company offers plenty of options, including snorkeling, scuba and whale-watching adventures, but we found sailing an ideal way to see the sun dip into the ocean at the end of the day.
We booked a cocktail sail, which included an open bar and a thoughtful selection of heavy hors d’oeuvres.
Last, but least amount of clothes, staying in Wailea means you’re only minutes away from Little Beach (LittleBeachMaui.com), Maui’s unofficial clothing-optional beach. Read up on the website for details on how to access that specific section of beach, which also includes an area all the way at the end that’s frequented by predominantly gay men and other queer people.
The scenery is spectacular (and sometimes that includes the beachgoers), and if you arrive right when the larger park opens (7 a.m. weekdays, 5 a.m.
Saturdays and Sundays), you will very likely have the entire beach to yourself. Like so much of Maui, describing that experience simply as magical feels woefully inadequate.
Life-changing feels a little more on-brand.