You think you’ve got their number? Makeover aside, Gloria’s food stays true
ARNOLD WAYNE JONES | Life+Style Editor jones@dallasvoice.com
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OVERALL RATING 3.5 Stars
Gloria’s, 3223 Lemmon Ave. 214-303-1166. Open daily from 11 a.m.–10 p.m. (11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays).
A comforting mix of reliable Tex-Mex dishes and unique Salvadoran cuisine, the success of this Oak Cliff institution and expansion into yuppie haven hasn’t diminished the simple, satisfying, well-priced food.
Overall: 3.5 stars
Food: 3.5 stars
Atmosphere: 3 stars
Service: 3 stars
Price:
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I can still recall the first time I ate at a Gloria’s. It was at the original one on Davis Street, a diner-y looking box that was crowded with regulars and had typical Oak Cliff charm, i.e., fast service, no fuss and tasty, unpretentious grub. I probably ate the Super Special, a sampler of pupusa, tamal, yucca, plantain and a few other items, which cost $8. I came out to a co-worker that day, the first time I’d come out to anyone other than a guy I was hitting on. It’s been a favorite ever since.
It became even more of a favorite when the restaurant began to expand — first to Lemmon Avenue, across from Uncle Julio’s. That brushed concrete L-shaped space had (has) a smallish bar/waiting area, a patio and an acre of simple floorspace. Then one opened a few blocks from my house on Greenville Avenue. Again, cavernous but quaint, with a bigger bar area and roomier patio.
And all along, the food remained consistently, wonderfully the same.
Until.
A few years back, they tweaked the menu. Just a bit, but noticeably. You could tell the difference between some dishes depending on which locale you went to.
Then about a year ago, the Greenville Avenue locale underwent a makeover: An even bigger bar. Moody lighting. More TVs (a sad, inevitable reality of many restaurants, even fine dining ones). In style, you can hardly recognize it from where I ate that first coming-out meal. (The Super Special also costs $11 now — but is still a bargain.)
Now, the latest location — the company’s 13th — arrives, and the transition from neighborhood eatery to yuppie destination is complete. The deco urinals flush themselves. The hand dryers are Dyson-automatic-blown-air-thingies (I couldn’t even swear they had a toilet in the original all those years ago). The bar is humongous, with many hi-def TVs and elegant lacquered chairs and French doors that open onto an even more impressive patio.
All of which means everything we liked about Gloria’s is gone, right? Not at all.
As with Susan Boyle, a bit of lipstick and a fashion consult has altered the look but not the soul of the place. The seating is nicer, the finish-out more polished. But Gloria’s is still Gloria’s. At the new location, on Cole Avenue near east-bound Lemmon, service remains quick and friendly. (I spent more time looking over the newly designed menu, trying to decide what to order, than it took for the kitchen to send it out.) And the food is still the food.
I fairly judge most Tex-Mex restaurants by the quality of the complimentary chips-and-dip that accompany the menus, and Gloria’s has always stood above most. There are always two: The traditional tomato-based salsa, and a black bean puree that is so addictive, I’ve always just assumed its laced with black tar heroin. The chips are good, too — crisp and salty and sturdy enough to withstand a voracious scoop or two.
The redone menu card is another example of form over substance: It’s harder to find the old favorites, but they taste the same. The cuisine includes familiar Tex-Mex dishes, but among the best are the Salvadoran specialties. Pupusas (especially plain ol’ cheese ones) are still one of my favorite comfort foods: little pockets of grilled, filled tortilla goodness served, always, with a laconic tuft of slaw. Simple, delicious, satisfying. Likewise, the carne asada — grilled skirt steak served in a slab — is a meat-lover’s dream of hearty food.
The chocolate flan is another enduring highlight: Brown as a kid at the beach, sloshing lightly in a shallow pool of caramel.
Gloria’s version of a chile relleno is not as heavily breaded in a cocoon flour, but served, for want of a better term, open-faced, with bits of well-done steak swathed in cheese and spilling out. It’s a spicy concoction. Blander is the red sauce on one of their chicken enchiladas; the cheese enchilada, or one dressed with sour cream or salsa verde, is better. Their version of guacamole isn’t among the tops in town, either.
As with many Tex-Mex restaurants, combination plates abound. (Combo No. 2’s spinach quesadillas, beef enchilada and especially crisp chicken tostada hits the spot while watching a game and tossing back a margarita. On the other hand, there’s not much a la carte ordering — if you want a single enchilada or taco, you have to ask, and you should specify between refried, black or borracho beans with the platters. No recommendation there — all are good.
In fact, that could be the motto across Gloria’s: Old, new, yuppie or barrio, it’s still like home.
This article appeared in the Dallas Voice print edition November 12, 2010.
Mmmm, I love me some Gloria’s. I could swim in a pool of refried black beans.
So when will the Lemmon location close??
Arnold Wayne, thanks for the review. I have not had a chance to eat at the new location, primarily because, the night we tried, we couldn’t figure out the parking! The garage seemed tiny and only for valet. Do you know if I missed something?
Also, in response to vj’s comment above, I wonder what you thought of the crowd vs. the Lemmon location. My thoughts are the two spaces are aimed at two different audiences.
Thanks again!
David
@vj — The Lemmon location is not closing.
I’ll never eat there again after her frivolous lawsuit against a former employee. Now only go to Mario Sabino’s. There’s room for 2 in this town and Gloria’s tried to outspend him in court and put him under. Didn’t work. MARIO SABINO’s, Lemmon Ave. Love it !
I don’t often find the need to comment on articles. However, while the food at Gloria’s is great, the service is horrific. I have yet to have outstanding service at any of their locations.
We’ve had many wonderful dinners over many years at Gloria’s. The great food and service has always been the reasons we continue to go.
I think the comment above by Mike Lo Vuolo is frivolous and over dramatic. It’s smart business for companies and individuals to try to recover stolen property through lawsuits.
Mike Lo V’s comments are on the mark. Nothing was stolen from Gloria and the judge agreed. Still, she seems intent on trying to bankrupt one small business owner (who is related to her, by the way), by vowing to take her suit to the Texas Supreme Court. Her original attorney’s practices were questionable at best, so she hired new council, perhaps in an effort to give some credibility to her claims. So far her case has only given visibility to Mario Sabino’s Restaurant on Lemmon. The food, service and a gracious owner keep people coming back. The place is filled with regulars every night and continues to get busier. Gloria seems to be striving for and succeeding in becoming the Olive Garden of Salva-Tex. Good for her. I don’t dislike her restaurants at all, but her lawsuit reeks of a personal vendetta and that’s enough for me to take my business down the street. Mario’s menu is more diverse than Gloria’s too, and that’s part of what we like about it. He makes great burgers, fish, chicken fried steak, ribs… He will cook anything you want if he has it in his kitchen– a great host. See you at Mario’s!
Gloria is a hag, I won’t eat there ever again either because of the way she’s treating Mario from Mario Sabino’s. Mario’s BTW, is much better than Gloria’s, way better food, way better service and atmosphere. Gloria’s is over-rated, try Mario Sabino’s on Lemmon Ave and he won’t disappoint!! Join Mario Sabino’s on Facebook for some great deals, search for Mario Sabino’s Mexican & El Salvadorian Restaurant. ; )
Article says Gloria’s is 3.5 Stars but Mario Sabino’s is a 4!
I just ate at Mario Sabinos today for the 1st time. Ordered
the lunch special and a dos equis. It was excellent. Being hispanic
and bilingual, I felt right at home at Marios. The 30k millionaires
can keep Glorias, I’ll be keep having good authentic food in an
authentic enviroment at Sabinos.