STEVEN LINDSEY | Contributing Writer
StevenCraigLindsey@gmail.com
Any year that doesn’t include a trip to Mexico would be a sad one, even for a busy travel writer like myself who is always seeking out new destinations. Few other countries on earth (at least the ones I’ve visited) make me feel more welcome, and it’s all thanks to Mexico’s genuinely warm-hearted, friendly people.
My husband and I first visited Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, (PV for short) more than 20 years ago (yikes!), and the tropical paradise has been in regular rotation ever since. Not only is it a south-of-the-border nirvana for queer people — particularly gay men — its location also makes it an ideal starting point for an extended vacation.
During COVID times, my gay friend group discovered the magic formula of a long weekend in Puerto Vallarta’s Zona Romantica, followed by a few additional days in the adjoining state of Nayarit.
By starting in PV, it’s possible to get enough nonstop LGBTQ nightlife and full-throttle, margarita-fueled debauchery to last a lifetime. Then, after dialing things down in Nayarit’s more laid-back towns and beaches, you’re sure to return home refreshed and recharged.
For anyone wondering about places outside of Puerto Vallarta being LGBTQ-friendly, put your mind at ease. Nayarit was one of the first states in Mexico to recognize same-sex marriage. The destination is also a member of the International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA). And multiple Nayarit towns stage Pride celebrations each June, shortly after Puerto Vallarta’s May commemorations.
Based on two years of accumulated visits to both Jalisco and Nayarit (most recently this past March), I’ve created an itinerary with highlights that would afford you the same level of bliss that I’ve experienced time and time again. Plus, there is plenty of time to discover your own favorite spots.
Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco (2-3 nights)
Ideally, a three-night stay, from Friday to Monday, provides LGBTQ visitors with the best opportunity to experience a whole weekend in Zona Romantica. Catch a local drag show on Friday night at La ChaChaLaca Chatterbox & Bar (ChaChaLacaBar.com), followed by a show at The Palm Cabaret (ThePalmCabaret.com) on Saturday night. Then, hang out with the locals on the Malecón on Sunday night.
Along the boardwalk, you’ll discover a variety of vendors, food stands and live music, all working in tandem to create the kind of joyous party vibe you’ll only find in Mexico. Grab a $1 beer from a gift shop or convenience store, and you’ll have an incredible time without breaking the bank.
The less-than-a-year-old Tryst Hotel (TrystHotels.com) has already become the hottest LGBT hotel in town, and it is a destination worth checking out. Crowds of hotel guests, locals and queer visitors from other properties mingle at the rooftop pool and bar for lively happy hours, as well as weekend drag brunches in the courtyard restaurant with excellent food and incredible performances.
The guest rooms and suites feature a simple yet chic design with crisp whites and clean lines, allowing the vibrantly colored neighborhood and ocean views through your windows or balcony to take center stage. Service is impeccable, and the proximity to Los Muertos Beach (the gay beach) can’t be topped.
A can’t miss-restaurant there is the gay-owned Vietnamese restaurant, Let’s Pho (LetsPhoPV.com), which features indoor and cafe-style sidewalk seating directly across from the charming Parque Lázaro Cárdenas. Chef-owner Charlie Huynh was honored this year as Best Gay Chef in a local awards program. Be sure to try the Coconut Curry Chicken and the Rock and Roll Beef.
Riviera Nayarit (1 night)
Begin your journey into Nayarit with a short drive north of the Puerto Vallarta International Airport, and let the decompression and stress reduction begin.
All-inclusive hotels aren’t my style, but many travelers appreciate the abundance of food and drinks available on demand. The rooms and setting at Delta Hotels Riviera Nayarit, An All-Inclusive Resort (Marriott.com) really impressed. The jungle setting offers a welcome change of scenery, featuring several pools and hot tubs nestled among lush flora, as well as a full-service spa. The hotel staff also graciously welcomed the group of gay men I traveled with on this particular trip, which put me instantly at ease.
To find a can’t miss restaurant here just take a short shuttle ride across the highway to the oceanfront Tonati Beach Club (part of the all-inclusive package). Head over for lunch, then settle in for some chill time in a beach chair where you can take in the sunset during the fall and winter.
Jala, Nayarit (1 night)
If you’re into off-the-beaten-path experiences, it doesn’t get much more remote than the Pueblo Mágico (magical town) of Jala, a two-hour drive through the mountains from PVR. Of all the places I’ve stayed in the country, Jala felt the most authentically Mexican. Whereas most hospitality staff in touristy areas speak English, it pays to know some key Spanish phrases in Jala, as English speakers will be rare.
Nestled beneath the active volcano of Ceboruco, entering the sleepy village feels like stepping back in time, which adds to the incentive to disconnect and unwind. Each August, the town hosts a Corn Festival, celebrating the region’s primary crop.
Ask a hotel clerk to help you get to El Salto Waterfall (it’s not easy to find on your own) and reward yourself with the experience of an impressive natural wonder, especially between the June and September rainy seasons.
Where to Stay
The last thing I expected to find among the cobblestone streets of Jala was a luxury hotel, but Quinta Nukari Boutique (HotelNukari.com) made me consider adding another night in Jala. Once an 18th-century hacienda, the building has been transformed into a glorious retreat with rooms overlooking a central courtyard fountain. There’s a small spa, a lovely, secluded pool (located a block away), and a rooftop bar and restaurant with views of the central church, mountains and volcano.
For Jala’s can’t miss restaurant, book a table at sunset on the hotel rooftop for incredible food. During the daytime, however, venture away from the property for lunch. Fonda Doña Muelva (find on Instagram and Facebook) won my heart. Don’t expect anything fancy (not even air-conditioning), but the utterly charming restaurant serves some incredible, rustic cuisine. Try the Chorreada, a savory corn cake topped with your choice of protein and accompaniments.
Sayulita, Nayarit (2 nights)
Chances are, you know someone who loves Sayulita. And if you didn’t, you do now. It’s another one of Mexico’s designated magical towns, and a place I’ve visited several times now. Sayulita consistently delivers a balanced mix of laid-back beach town vibes, complemented by a healthy dose of culture and a hint of sophistication. There’s enough to do here, from spa-hopping and boutique shopping to lounging with a margarita as the surf laps gently beneath your beach chair.
Sayulinda Hotel (SayulindaHotel.com) captures the essence of Sayulita with its bursts of neon-hued fabrics and artistic details. Hang out for hours in the rooftop pool or sit under the thatched roof at Del Patrón, the bar, for views of the bay, a short walk from the hotel’s front door. Splurge on the Suite del Patrón for a spacious escape featuring ocean views and luxe touches throughout.
Enjoy at least one meal from a street vendor, especially great for late-night bites under the stars as you walk back to the hotel or explore some of the town’s festive bars. For a great sunset dinner (can you tell sunset’s a big part of my travel plans?), book a table closest to the water at Don Pedro’s Restaurant & Bar (DonPedros.com). Since 1994, this has been one of the go-to spots in town for tourists and locals alike to dine on fresh seafood, from the raw bar selections to mesquite-grilled fish of the day.
Punta de Mita, Nayarit (2 nights)
Also known as Punta Mita (which typically refers more to the resort section of the town), this enclave between PV and Sayulita features an impressive collection of luxury resorts. The beaches are secluded and excellent for surfing (or attempting to surf for the sake of Instagram photos), plus you’ll likely never encounter a beach vendor, unlike Puerto Vallarta, where they can be relentless.
The white sand beach is a favorite spot for early morning walks barefoot in the surf, and nobody is within sight in any direction. The spectacular UNESCO-designated Marietas Islands are only a 25-minute boat ride away, too, if you desire a memorable excursion.
Twice now, W Punta de Mita (Marriott.com) has been my home away from home while in this section of Nayarit. It embodies the modern sensibility of the W Hotels brand, with a genuine appreciation for local culture and design.
Guest room accommodations either line a central lagoon or feature ocean views — some with hot tubs or private plunge pools, depending on the level you book. The hotel features six dining venues, so you never have to leave (smart!), including the brand-new Casa Dragones Palapa Bar by Rubra, the first tasting and bar experience outside the original in San Miguel de Allende.
Set aside time for treatments at the spectacular spa, workouts or yoga at the well-appointed fitness center, and a Huichol-inspired pool with an overhead catwalk for soaking up the sun.
Even though the hotel has enough options to keep your taste buds euphoric, resort fever often gets the best of me, and I need to get off-property, even if only for a single meal. Get a car service to take you to nearby Tuna Blanca (TunaBlanca.com) for sunset dinner on the beach with impeccable seafood dishes from chef Thierry Blouet, founder of the iconic Festival Gourmet Internacional. Order the five-course tasting menu (including a vegetarian option) for an in-depth sampling of his culinary skills.
For more information on building your own itinerary in Puerto Vallarta and Nayarit, log on to VisitPuertoVallarta.com or VisitNayarit.travel.