Niagara, Ottawa among the gay gems of Canada
CHATEAU CONSPIRACY | Gorgeous French Canadian chateaux are just some of the architectural delights of Eastern Canada, especially in the national capital of Ottawa, which enthusiastically celebrates Pride. (Photos courtesy Ottawa Tourism)
Last week, we previewed WorldPride, the internation gay celebration taking place this weekend in Toronto. But Canada’s largest city isn’t the only place Texans interested in headed toward the Great White North can find queerlicious destinations.
In Part 2 of our series, we offer suggestions for other Canadian delights. And all are just overnight getaways from Toronto, so you don’t have to miss out on anything.
Niagara-on-the-Lake and the Shaw Festival. It takes about 90 minutes to drive around the southwestern edge of Lake Ontario to reach one of Canada’s most celebrated winemaking regions and most charming historic colonial towns, Niagara-on-the-Lake, which is a gateway for exploring Niagara Falls, just 15 miles south.
Famous for its early military history (the town was a key setting of the War of 1812), the town is home to several battlefields and related sites as well as the excellent RiverBrink Art Museum, and a compact, pedestrian-friendly downtown abounding with gay-friendly country inns and B&Bs, sophisticated restaurants with shaded courtyards and patios, and the prestigious Shaw Festival, which presents a mix of works by the iconic 19th-century playwright George Bernard Shaw along with plays by other notables (both Cabaret and lesser-known Tennessee Williams play A Lovely Sunday for Creve Coeur are during the summer season) in four theaters.
More than two-dozen wineries are set throughout the Niagara-on-the-Lake region. Most have tasting rooms and some present concerts or other entertainment, especially during summer. The wine culture here has contributed to a superb dining scene, with many chefs in these parts sourcing locally and organically and turning out first-rate contemporary cuisine.
Niagara Falls. In some ways the aesthetic and pace of Niagara Falls, a small city of about 82,000, is the antithesis of Niagara-on-the-Lake, which is relatively quiet. Downtown Niagara buzzes with souvenir shops and touristy diversions, and the community is beset all year long, and especially during the busy summer, by visitors viewing the three immense waterfalls that cross the U.S.-Canadian international border: Horseshoe Falls (the largest, with a drop of 173 feet), American Falls and Bridal Veil Falls.
Stratford and the Shakespeare Festival. A mecca for theater aficionados, anchoring a largely agrarian swath of southwestern Ontario, the friendly Canadian town of Stratford abounds with art galleries and boutiques, cafes and romantic inns and B&Bs. The community, named for the town in England associated with Shakespeare, is famous for its theaters (the Avon, Studio, Tom Patterson and Festival) which present a mix of Shakespearean and classic works by both established and emerging playwrights during its April—October festival season. You can also attend great music concerts during the summer. Just a 90-minute drive from Toronto, this spirited community is a must-see for anyone with a genuine love of the performing arts.
Ottawa. Canada’s national capital, Ottawa is a bit farther from Toronto than some of the other places mentioned here (about a five-hour drive), but this city of 825,000 contains enough notable attractions and diverting neighborhoods to be worth a visit of at least a couple of days — and ideally three or four. Also, it’s a handy stopover en route to Montreal, which is roughly another two hours east. Keep in mind as well that Ottawa hosts its own well-attended Pride festival in mid to late August.
Downtown Ottawa and its regal government buildings occupy a high bluff looking over the Ottawa River — the picturesque Rideau Canal extends south through the city and is a lovely place for a summer stroll. Neighborhoods of note close to downtown include a compact but lively Gay Village along Bank Street, a hip and bustling dining and entertainment precinct called Byward Market (there’s even a great gay nightspot, Lookout Bar), and, a bit farther afield, the quirky and artsy Glebe neighborhood, which abounds with cafes, galleries and retail establishments.
Top attractions in Ottawa include Parliament Hill, with its grand government buildings, most of them dating back to the mid-19th century; be sure to ascend the 300-foot-tall Peace Tower for stunning views of the city and surrounding countryside.
The Canadian Museum of Civilization, National Gallery of Canada, Rideau Canal National Historic Site and Canada’s National Arts Centre are also all well worth budgeting time for.
— Andrew Collins
This article appeared in the Dallas Voice print edition June 20, 2014.