There’s a reason for Hawaii’s gay-friendliness that has nothing to do with being Obama’s native state — paradise welcomes everyone
LIFE’S A BEACH | The beach along Maui’s Kihei coast is one of the longest uninterrupted stretches of sand anywhere.
ARNOLD WAYNE JONES | Life+Style Editor
When the islands call, West Coasters typically visit Hawaii and East Coasters Puerto Rico or the Virgin Islands, but where does that leave Texans? Well, Hawaii helped make that decision for gays last month, when it became the 14th state (plus D.C.) to start performing same-sex marriages. Game, set and match-made-in-heaven to the 50th state.
Hawaii has always had a reputation for being a welcoming place. As well it should. The islands have no indigenous peoples — this archipelago of eight principal islands emerged from volcanoes under the sea over millions of years, and has been populated by newcomers ever since: First the Polynesians about 1,700 years ago, then by Asians, Portuguese, Spanish, Americans (North and South), and, really, anyone interested in living on a beautiful sandy Eden in the middle of the North Pacific Ocean. Its native fruit, the pineapple, is an international symbol of hospitality. The wonder is that it’s not more crowded.
But the friendliness of the Hawaiian people goes deeper. All beach communities have a quirky nature, but island communities are even quirkier, and when you live on a spit of dirt 1,800 miles from the nearest landmass, you develop a sense of independence and tend to treat newcomers with respect and kindness, no matter who they are or what they look like. It probably has to do with the aloha attitude — the quality that says “live and let live — peace, love and joy to everyone.”
No one should be surprised that Hawaii boasts (according to a 2012 Gallup poll) the largest population by percentage of gays in the 50 states, or that it was the first state to declare same-sex unions legal (though that was derailed for 20 years; see story on Page 6). Now that gay couples have been granted — and are exercising — marriage rights on the islands, it has become the focus of renewed interest as a gay travel destination. And why not? Given a choice of nuptials in the winter in Des Moines or Diamond Head, is there really a choice?
Diamond Head, of course, is on the island of Oahu, the seat of government (the city of Honolulu is there) and the highest concentration of the population of about 1 million. But neighboring Maui, with more space to explore and fewer people to get in your way, may be the ideal location for a vacation, honeymoon, wedding ceremony … or all three. (For wedding planning suggestions, see sidebar, Page 22.)
Locals will drive 25 mph even in a 30 mph zone. What’s the rush? There is simply nothing as important as living a good life. And the good life is what Maui has to offer, with its rich cane sugar fields, miles of beaches and verdant mountain ranges.
Paddle boarding, top, is a popular water sport in Maui, as is whale watching aboard a catamaran like the Ali’i Nui for a sunset dinner-and-booze cruise, below.
Unofficially, Maui — shaped like an oblong figure eight, 730 square miles and home to about 150,000 residents — has four main areas appealing to newcomers: Kihei (including Wailea and Makena) on the southwest coast, Lahaina (including Ka’anapali and Napili) along the northwest coast, Hana on southeast coast and the upcountry in the middle. Each offers a different vibe and benefits whether you’re traveling with a sweetheart or just hoping to get away.
Lahaina
Probably the best-known part of Maui is the town of Lahaina, once the royal seat of the original kingdom of Hawaii and now its primary tourist draw, as well as the ritziest ZIP code on Maui. Its main beach, Ka’anapali, is famed worldwide, and the coast is dotted with a mile-long archipelago of hotels, resorts and restaurants, from the Hyatt to the Sheraton, that cater to almost every need.
The Sheraton was the first hotel to go up along the gorgeous strip of sand (it just celebrated its 50th year), and a recent renovation makes it one of the most luxurious. Like most properties, much of it is open-air, with breezy trade winds and magnificent sunsets lulling you as you walk through the cavernous lobby or with your seaward-facing windows open. The spacious grounds have several pools (plus a lazy river), on-beach massage cabanas and equipment rentals for snorkeling or just lounging on the sand. On the edge of the property sits the westernmost point on Maui, a black cliff where a nightly cliff-diving show takes place.
On the other end of Ka’anapali sits the Hyatt Regency Resort & Spa, a somewhat more recent addition to the strip but an extravagant addition. Designed almost like a nature preserve, the Hyatt has an expanse of well-tended grounds where wildlife meander among the guests, from flamingos to warm-weather penguins, as well as great dining options, from the nightly outdoor luau to the creative and calming Japengo; for breakfast, dine with the fauna at the Swan Court, which serves an exceptional buffet.
Ka’anapali, for all its beauty, isn’t the only spot in Lahaina with romantic appeal. Although only a 15-minute drive north, neighboring Napili offers a distinctly cooler microclimate, as well as a slower pace and lower-key experience.
The charming Napili Kai Beach Resort sets the tone here. With a modest entrance, you might miss it driving by, which only confirms its remote getaway cred. The secluded nature belies spacious, well-appointed rooms and dreamy views of the reef-enhanced Napili Bay. Its Sea House Restaurant delivers an old-school dining room vibe with exquisite fish on the menu and remarkable desserts. After a meal, consider attending the weekly Slack Key Show, a bravura performance of traditional Hawaiian music on “slack key” guitars.
Dining in Lahaina is one of the main attractions of the area, as scores of excellent restaurants of all kinds offer their creations. But as a beach community, even fine-dining options are casual, and the food is allowed to be the star.
That’s definitely the case at Mala Ocean Tavern, a smallish cinder-block-and-stucco structure abutting the rocky shores of Lahaina, with an intense culinary pedigree, courtesy of famed restaurateur Mark Ellman. Its rangy menu of seafood, lamb, beef and vegetarian options makes it unmissable, from the ahi bruschetta (lightly seared with edamame puree and local micro-greens) and ahi tuna wraps, to the spicy black bean tortilla soup, which rivals anything you could get in Texas. (The seared sashimi and signature fruit dessert are also worth ordering.)
Lahaina is also home to gay-owned Star Noodle, the diverse and delectable noodle shop that increased in reputation when its former executive chef, Sheldon Simeon, placed third on Top Chef. Not just Ramen, the menu is an intriguing selection of soba, udon, rice noodles and vermicelli, plus excellent libations and malasadas (fried doughnuts with chocolate and caramel) in a buzzy, friendly, family-style atmosphere.
Michael Moore, who owns Star Noodle and several other acclaimed concepts, also opened Leoda’s Pie Shop, a casual diner with serious cuisine, feature both savory pies (lush, hot shepherd’s, for example) and sweet desserts (the mini banana cream is a delight). And when you’re talking about the islands, you have to mention Roy Yamaguchi, who pioneered Hawaiian-fusion cuisine.
FROM SEA-LEVEL TO THE TOP OF THE WORLD | Coast of Maui south of Hana boasts vast ocean views; three hours later, you can be at the top of the Martian-like Haleakala Crater which, measured from its base under the Pacific, is taller than Everest.
His new Roy’s Ka’anapali offers a globally-sourced wine and sake list (with some well priced options even by the glass) and Pacific Rim dishes like a crunchy shrimp lumpia.
Kihei
About 45 minutes south of Lahaina — and only 15 minutes from the airport in Kahului — is lackadaisical Kihei, resort area extending down the southwest coast of Maui. There are few accommodations above three stories, and style is more residential-seeming and quaint.
This is where you will find the Maui Sunseeker, a gay boutique hotel undergoing a substantial renovation. (In keeping with Hawaii’s openness, the hotel is welcoming of “awesome straight people” as well,) The gay-owned hotel of 23 rooms (expanding by summer to 26) feels more like a bed-and-breakfast, with its weekly mixers, free access to beach equipment and friendly staff.
The penthouse suite — exceptional if you can get it — includes its own outdoor hot tub on a huge balcony overlooking the ocean, which is about 20 feet from the doorstep, plus a full kitchen, Jacuzzi tub.
Just down the road is ample shopping and dining options, but the unmissable stop is the Kihei Caffe, where all locals will encourage you to go. A mom-and-pop-style breakfast spot, you can get a huge, sticky cinnamon roll or the house specialty, pork fried rice with scrambled egg; it’s easily enough for two. (Bring cash; like a lot of places on Maui, they don’t take plastic.) Stella Blues is another great breakfast option.
The beach outside of the Sunseeker is beautiful and serene, but you’re only about 15 minutes from notorious Little Beach. This bit of surf, across a lava flow from (natch) Big Beach, is Maui’s clothing-optional stretch of dune, and considered the gayest of the area beaches. It can be a trek walking to, so if you work up a sweat, don’t worry: You can dump your clothes as soon as you get there and hop in the icy brine.
Little Beach is in the Makena area, which, along with neighboring Wailea, more closely resembles the resort development of Lahaina than Kihei. It’s also where you can find a variety of good restaurants. Along the Wailea Emerald Golf Course is Gannon’s, the latest concept from pioneering Maui restaurateur Bev Gannon, whose three eateries — The General Store and Joes’s are the other two — have made the Dallas native an iconic chef. Check out her version of the Hawaiian classic moko loko: beef patties with egg, fried rice and gravy. You can also check out the popular Monkeypod, and next door Pita Paradise, where the proprietor serves the fish caught that morning.
MAUI EXPERIENCES | The Hana Highway, top, is a photographer’s paradise; once in Hana at the Travaasa Hotel, center, you can relax by the palm-lined pool; cliff-diving is a sight at the Sheraton Ka’anapali Resort in Lahaina, bottom.
Whale watching is a popular pastime on Maui, which you can do with binoculars from the coast, or aboard one of the sunset catamarans. The Ali’i Nui is a fun way to spend a few hours, as it sails west into the sea and positions itself for a spectacular setting of the evening sun while you also score the water for whales. When darkness hits (and in Hawaii, minimal light pollution means it gets dark) the boat offers a feast of food (including alcohol) before returning to dock.
Hana
A true Maui experience wouldn’t be complete without a trip to Hana: Its remoteness makes it a perfect getaway from strife, and the road to it — the notorious Hana Highway — is an attraction in and of itself. A two-lane (sometimes one-lane) coastal road that hugs the mountainside winds more than a one-armed watchmaker, but is a feast of flora. From the verdant hills to the breathtaking whitecapped sea to the fruit stands, expect to stop a dozen times. (It’s less than 50 miles from the airport, but plan about three hours to drive it; you don’t want to — and can’t — speed.)
Start your Hana adventure with a stop at Mama’s Fish House in Haiku, one of the great dining treasures of the island and reveres for its atmosphere as for its fresh food. Also say goodbye to the trappings of society there, because when you’re pulling into the Travaasa Hana Hotel three hours later, you’ll feel like you’re in another world.
You kind of are. Hana itself (pop. 4,000) — an outpost on the tip of civilization — has only one real point: Relax. When you drop your car off at reception, it’s parked away in a lot for the remainder of your stay. Why would you need it? Bellmen are available 24/7 to fetch you in golf carts and drive you anywhere you’d need to go: To the front desk; to the spa, to the few restaurants in the area, even down to the beach access two miles away. The grounds of the adult-only Sea Ranch Cottages, feng shui’d in a meditative footprint, are fabulous, with palm trees, circular cart paths, archways, gates and landscaping that force you to slow down.
There’s limited Wi-Fi here, terrible cellular reception and none of the cabins have TVs. If that’s a deal-breaker for you — if being able to stream reruns of Gossip Girl is more important to you than a night in the Garden of Eden … well, maybe man deserved to be expelled from Paradise.
The rooms hardly need TV, with amenities like whole-bean Hawaii coffee (with grinder!), local teas, spacious, airy accommodations and magnificent water views. And the spa, which opens onto a grassy courtyard, revitalizes you just to sit and reflect (though the treatment facilities and therapists are awesome). You can also enjoy the facilities (pools, tennis courts, etc.) and explore the environs. Go shopping in one of the area boutiques or galleries for art or produce, or head over to the Hana Ranch Restaurant, a neighborhoody spot with a small menu and wine list. Get the coconut shrimp and catch of the day, especially if it’s ono (preferred by locals even over ahi), a dense mackerel-like fish also known as wahoo, and don’t skip the macadamia pie with island-made ice cream.
The Travaasa has its own eatery as well, the Paniolo Lounge, which serves Portuguese sausage (you can get Italian sausage anywhere, my native server tells me, but where have you even heard of Portuguese?) as well as banana-macadamia pancakes and the freshest-squeezed O.J. ever.
Leaving Hana requires an act of will. Most people will tell you to return to civilization along the same road that brought you there. Making the full circuit around the southern tip of the island is a no-no, according to your rental car agreement. But the reason (a 9-mile stretch of highway where the pavement is loose and sometimes flooded) isn’t a reason at all if you drive safely and slowly … and not during the rainy season. It also provides you with an experience few rule-followers will share: The opportunity to see massive seascapes of Pacific Ocean abutting a Martian-like landscape of red volcanic rock.
Upcountry/Haleakala National Park
The distaff side of Maui isn’t for everyone, but it does lead you around the far side of the island, where there is much to enjoy. About an hour south of Hana on the road back to the populated areas is Haleakala National Park, which boasts beautiful ocean views and hiking paths that lead to a bamboo forest, as well as an impressive waterfall. Pass by the dirt road back to civilization and stop by the tasting room at Maui’s Winery at Ulupalakua Ranch on the slope of Haleakala.
FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD | The entrance to the Hyatt Regency’s Japengo restaurant, above, shows off the serene beauty of the island, which is a foodie destination with options like the ahi tartare, right, at Mark Ellman’s Mala Ocean
Tavern.
Coming this direction also makes it easy to veer off the main road and scale 10,000 feet to the top of the volcano than formed Maui, the now-dormant Haleakala Crater. (The only active volcanoes on the Hawaiian Islands are on the Big Island of Hawaii, 50 miles southeast of Maui, and visible on a clear day from the south side; the last lava eruption on Maui was before George Washington was elected president.)
Visiting Haleakala, a national forest service park (your admission ticket at any entrance of the park is good for two days), is a heady experience in more than one way. It takes about 45 minutes to climb the winding roads in a car, though hikers and bikers take their own routes both up and down the mountain. Along the way, there are turn-offs to pause and enjoy the exquisite views of the entire island, as well as the West Maui Mountains that back up against Lahaina.
Once up there, the Maui experience changes substantially. First, the temperature drops a good 35 degrees, and the landscape nearly defies description: Plantless expanses of solidified lava, and views that make you feel on top of the world. (In a way, you are: Measured from its based under the surface of the ocean, Haleakala is taller than Mount Everest.) It’s a dreamscape you won’t want to miss.
Driving down can feel torturous, but not as frightening as the decision to scale the crater under cover of darkness, await the sunrise (Haleakala means, in Hawaiian, “House of the Sun”) and then bicycle back down more than 10 miles.
Biking down a mountain? That’s extreme. Then again, everything about Maui is extreme, from its beauty to its peacefulness to its remote location. That’s kind of what paradise was meant to be.
This article appeared in the Dallas Voice print edition January 24, 2014.